Ching Meng (Qing Ming) Ancestors day or all souls day

Honouring ones ancestors is a very important part of Chinese culture. In particular the Ching Meng which falls on the 14th of the third month of the Chinese calendar each year...or April 5th depending who is telling the story!. Prayers can be done 10 days either side of Ching Meng, as during this 21 days, the ancestors are allowed to come close to decedents and are able to receive blessings, food offerings and gifts as burnt offerings to last the coming year.

Often there is fire crackers let off to ward off evil spirits and there can be a party atmosphere, eating food with the ancestors, tending the grave to beautify it, build earth up higher at the back, painting the lettering or even the whole grave site and placing a message of well being under a clod of soil on top of the headstone.

                    laying out food, drink and gifts

Food and drinks are laid out and usually consumed after the ghosts have eaten and prayers with wax candles and joss sticks of various sizes placed in threes for each ancestor, the guardian angle who has its own small shrine to the left of the headstone and joss sticks placed on all nearby graves to wish them well and ask them to help watch over the love ones. Colourful boxes of paper clothes, watches and these days cars, mobile phones, tablet computers and every possible replica of things every upright ghost should have, are burnt as an offering together with pretend money, gold and silver ingots.

                                          Angel's shrine

As an aging gweilo white skinned, over weight, balding, suspect hearing and sight, idiot blundering around a massive hillside among graves, smoke, food, noise with a fist full of joss sticks in one hand and a chunkal...or dutch hoe, in the other and a pack containing food, drinks, paint and paint brushes...(no strings of bungers for me though,) trying to find an overgrown Chinese grave with only Chinese writing...which I can't read, to guide me, makes a spectacle that stops all conversation and invites stares of awe or wonderment or I don't know what.

I go blithely on my way and take delight in waving away the inevitable Indian entrepreneur with brush-cutter and hoe showing that I indeed have my own chunkal and then proceed to hack the earth around the grave, placing new clods on top and trimming the sides, finally the headstone earth clod to hold down my wife's message to her ancestors.

                                 Burning offerings

The whole hillside is a patchwork of coloured papers and mini flags, smoke from so many little fires and millions of joss sticks, sounds of fireworks, children's laughter, women's gossip, men's knowing pronouncements and whispered prayers.

Belum Eco Resort

Club house at night
The Belum Eco Resort is the dream and passion of the Khong family. They have built a jungle type retreat on “Discovery” island in Lake Temenggor, some distance south of the bridges crossing the lake on the East/West highway.  http://www.belumecoresort.com.my/
This is not a swept up 5 star, gold plated luxury resort. Rather a bush setting, rustic almost camp out type resort. The steep terrain means it really is unable to cater from wheel chair, physically handicapped or the very unfit.

Jetty off E/W highway
Having paid you RM5 a day for car park, Steve or son Tom will meet you at the jetty west side of the eastern bridge on the East West highway from Gerik to Kota Baru. 5deg33’05”N by 101deg20’52”E.

Getting to the resort
It will be fun to see which craft they will pick you up in. Anything from a 2 story massive houseboat to a small runabout or anything in between depending how big your party is.

One of hundreds of faces of Lake Temenggor
As soon as you step on board, you are in serious holiday mood and the rat race is left behind. Enjoy the 40 min trip to Discovery Island and climb ashore via pontoon which will test your balancing skills. Have a welcome party at the club house (coffee, tea, hot and cold water available there at all times) and be allotted you chalet.

Some chalet’s
Most of the chalets are individual “A” frame type with lots of thatch and local materials and each has a semi open air on-suite with shower, toilet and basin off your personal balcony overlooking the lake. To get to the chalet’s requires a bush walk/climb along a flagstone path, which can be a challenge after late night lecture, karaoke or option booze up.

Our hosts
There are heaps of life jackets and to put one on and simple drift around in the water is a delight. But there are windsurfers, kayaks, and sailboats available for competent sailors and always fishing.

Messing about on the water
Also Steve will put on jungle treks to waterfall, visit an Orang Asli settlement or a very serious climb to a lookout on a nearby island. I’m told that if you are exceptionally lucky you might see elephants swimming across to islands, following the old elephant paths from before the dam was built and the lake formed.

That’s steeper than it looks!

Watchtower

Looking north from watchtower
Food is always a special time to sit in the club house overlooking the lake and eating heaps of delicious food, salads, maybe pizza, certainly a superb resort version of steamboat.

Clubhouse balcony

Steamboat
The Khong family have built this by themselves with blood sweat and tears where local tradespeople are few and far between and materials all have to be brought in by boat and carried by hand. Its a real credit to them and a great experience.

Legend of the Seas-Singapore to Hong Kong

Legend of the Seas 11th March 2012

Legend of the Seas Saigon Port
So here we go again on the Legend. Two families of friends who had not cruised before wanted to try a cruise. I suggested the Legend as we knew the ship and it was a short cruise of 5 nights.
Two families decided to get from Kuala Lumpur to Singapore by train. As KTMB http://www.ktmb.com.my/ offer half price to seniors, including foreigners. We opted for two standard sleeping berths for RM27 each (upper berth) for the trip from KL to Woodlands in Singapore.
We always enjoy Malaysian train trips, however our friends booked the first class suite and were bitterly disappointed. Would have been a lot cheaper and happier in standard berths.
Malaysian Immigration still get it right and an officer comes on board, initials and dates passports at the stop in Johor Baru. Then cross over to Singapore where the nightmare starts. Immigration is slow and tedious and once you emerge into the early morning light…where to go and what to do? Happily we found one railway official who helpfully pointed to where we could catch a 911 bus to Woodlands bus and MTR station. The MTR was unmanned and so we had absolutely no idea how to get to Harbour Front by train. We discovered that the 963 bus would take us to within a short walk (but up over a pedestrian walkway with suitcases) into the Harbour Front complex.

Seems to go with Singapore architecture

See what I mean?
Baggage check-in area was having renovations done so Royal Caribbean had to make the best of a bad situation and relieved us of baggage. The check-in was very well organised and  painless and we ran the gauntlet of photographers and “seapass” identi-photo to get on-board for lunch.
The Legend appears to have had an upgrade in the last 2 years and looked tidy, clean and staff who knew what they are doing. Food is to their usual standard (not quite up to Princess or Costa, but still very good). happily there was a greater selection of Asian dishes available and while not all could be called genuine, most were more than passable. Two years ago Asians had to eat western food and put up with it. With 1789 passengers, the make up was almost all Asian (and Australasian) topped by Malaysians over 700, Australians, Singaporeans, Indonesians, Japanese, Chinese etc. The dining room is still very good, nice choice of menu and included at least 1 Asian and vegetarian dish each night.

Fine dining

Centrum from on high
The ships berth for Ho Chee Minh …still called Saigon is up the Saigon River from Vung Tau. Google maps are so woefully out of date, (by decades) that I had no hope of pin pointing, exactly the end of the earth container terminal where we were deposited, but probably in the region of Tan Cang ? Lai. Choice is corrupt uniformed officials by the berth, a very expensive ships tour (US$46 just to get to Saigon and back pp) or the mafia outside the port gate. We opted for the later, as we felt we could at least negotiate with the gang land boys and got the price into Vung Tau, an hour away, from US$120 for a 7 seat taxi down to US$80. The driver, who says nothing and accepts the gang is in control, actually put his meter on and worked out the meter price round trip was US$72 so we did a good deal. Mind as one of our friends wife is Vietnamese, it did make life easier, although my wife was the get tough in your face negotiator.
So rather than sightseeing, we went to Vung Tau to see our friends Mum, who had travelled up from Can Tho (see Can Tho blog) with baskets full of fresh produce from their farms. As usual a feast was prepared including Vietnamese steam-boat and mountains of roast pork, kampong chicken, fruit and even mangoes as good as Australian Bowen mangoes. (and looked and tasted the same and were huge)

First serving Vietnamese style

Too many cooks spoil nothing!
The trip to Vung Tau was so different from 2 years ago. The road almost all now a 4 lane highway (tollbooths being built), with lovely centre and side gardens being laid and almost no rubbish to be seen. I didn’t recognise it, the change was so great.
We staggered back on board ship in time to wait for the inevitable late arrivals arguing with Vietnamese officials while the ships horn blasted in justifiable agitation. Cast off and we slid down the river with the odd horn blast in darkness for our next port Nha Trang.
Still an exquisite bay with the high mountain backdrop, the cable car to Vinh Nguyen Island.  Holland America, and Silversea ships were berthed alongside and we anchored out in deep water again. There was a holdup with officials and the ship only got to use its own shuttle boats with no local boats, so unloading was painfully slow for those who went ashore. Having been there before, we opted to stay on-board, but we have very fond memories of this very beautiful town and surrounds.

Nha Trang in the distance

Some of the beautiful mountains

Busy ships boats
Feeling at one with the region, I decided to do 2.5 miles around the walking track with camera and soak in the scenery snapping shots as took my fancy.

Gone sailing!
Although a new cruise entertainment director now, I was pleased to see the adults only quest programme had been retained and we enjoyed ourselves equally as much as last time making fools of ourselves. The ships singers and dances were the most polished I have seen on any ship and had us enthralled the 2 nights they performed.

Some of ships singers and dancers
The ship actually got a berth at Ocean Terminal in Hong Kong instead of out is the wilderness container terminal as last time. I have never worked out why ships actually ask you at what time you want to disembark, as they will tell you when you WILL get off anyway. If you say 0900 hrs, you can bet they want you lined up to jump ship at 0730 hrs. Oh well!!
Our friends decided to stay 4 nights in HK, but then blinked at the astronomical price of everything there, especially hotels. We had booked the evening plane back to KL and only succumbed to one HKD40 for a cup of coffee our friend shouted us. Actually be warned. Get bottled water at 7-eleven or similar at about HK4 a 600ml bottle whereas at the airport its HK14 the same bottle (or HK10 “on special”). Frankly I don’t like the place much. The prices not justifiable and the attitude is “high nose” as Chinese would say.

Kowloon Park
We did kill time in Kowloon park again. We did this last time with newfound shipboard friends and really enjoyed that. We also made the mistake of deciding to walk to Kowloon station which has a direct express train to the airport. Well its all building site ‘init? Not a sightseeing delight, but super once you get down to the station area…with its almost total lack if signage for tourists…and its supposed to be for tourists!!
Allow lots of time, not only to get to the airport and check-in, but as we had to go to terminal 2 we had to take 2 trains within the airport. Don’t worry about buying duty free as that's only the sign on the shop and we found prices averaged about 50% more than on our recent trip to Langkawi.

Raja Muda Races & Langkawi race week

November had the Raja Muda Regatta again sailing from Pt. Klang to Langkawi with a series of three passage races and numerous inshore day races. The series followed on what was once the Malaysian Offshore Series. When the Selangor Yacht Club gained Royal patronage from the then Prince heir or Raja Muda to the Sultanate of Selangor, it became a new series. While the prince is now Sultan, the name sticks.

Some serious boats
2011 series saw good winds for most races and the first leg Pt. Klang to Pangkor Island saw a good race with only a few light patches. Ashore in Pangkor reverted to the Seaview Hotel on Pangkor, as Marina Island is now so popular, that they were unable to house the fleet and only a few lucky ones who booked well ahead could find a birth there. The rest rocked all night in the bay between Pangkor and Pangkor Laut Islands.

Crew member Emy gets into the mood and has his own way with navigation colours
Pangkor to Penang was shorter this year, with the finish the south end of the Island, well upstream of a vicious current that our sailing caravan “Virgo” a Hunter 49, had serious problems with. Festivities ashore in Penang is one reason everyone sails this series. The annual trishaw races followed by the Khoo Kongsi, who always put on a lavish spread in their most unique and staggeringly beautiful compound. Much beer great food and the traditional Lion Dance, which this year I made a very shaky video of for YouTube. The title sort of came out wrong as “Lion dance at Knoo Kongsi” CIMG4392.AVI and I didn’t have the best vantage point sorry.
Inshore race saw light winds till almost the end when a strong wind picked up back markers who romped home.

Our Hunter 49 cutter
Penang to Langkawi usually has a storm, but this time is was a very strong wind which saw most of the fleet of go fast boats struggling, while our caravan loved it and we made a happy second in a race division we are usually way too slow for. The inshore races were again with fair winds and we managed to add a rounding mark that wasn’t in the instructions and so came our usual last.
The Royal Langkawi Yacht Club in the main town of Kuah is a very well set up and most hospitable place…even if the food and beer prices ignore the fact Langkawi is a duty free Island…actually 99 Islands. Sailing around these islands is one of the best experiences a sailor can have. Incredibly beautiful and makes sailing last OK as you spend more time enjoying the scenery.

Some serious money in Langkawi
And so Langkawi Race week in January 2012 got underway and after the first day 2 races around the cans, the race committee asked the question that has vexed us for years…What was a sailing caravan doing is class 1 race division….and so it was politely suggested we join Club Cruising division instead, which we readily agreed to. Suddenly we were in the middle of our class fleet and made racing so much more enjoyable. I only hope future races, the powers keep us in club Cruising. Lets face it the average racer does not have 3 lavish staterooms, 2 heads with 2 showers, microwave, icemaker, giant gen set to run it all, electric winches and the list goes on. We are definitely a cruising cutter. Mind our skipper has spent some serious money upgrading sails for this season and we were able to get much more speed and much higher point out of her, which was most enjoyable.
So sausage and triangle circuits prevailed with one exception being a race around numerous islands. This we had in the bag with a strong wind that really suited us…but then our Scottish navigator added a rounding mark and you guessed it…the same one as last time in the Raja Muda series. Strewth you would think we would learn, and so last again.

“Vega” and “Evelyn”
Sorry about lack of photos, but a few showing boats before the races and the lovely old “Vega” as press boat and still racing the 1910 built Bristol Cutter, the slightly modified “Evelyn” which relished the fresh conditions.

Ideal for Houseboats

Lake Temengor in the state of Perak, Malaysia is absolutely ideal for houseboats.

Situated on the East/West Highway from Gerik to East Coast of Peninsular Malaysia, it is close to the Royal Belum National Park. Famous for its swimming elephants, the Lake is over 75 km long with a great many islands, bays and streams.

The waters are deep and clear, surrounded by pristine jungle, home to Orang Asli tribes and sporting fish such as Toman, Sebarau, Tenggalan, Baung and Kelah.

Visit Belum Eco Resort on “Discovery Island”for a meal and chat with very informative staff.

Currently in the final stages of design and construction, BelumBred Houseboats will soon be available for sale or hire for getaways to this wonderful venue. The houseboats  are being designed to have minimal impact on the environment so as to keep this spectacular lake in its unspoilt condition.

2011 Long trip-Tianjin

Tianjin port area is massive and seems to extend as far as the eye can see...in the heavy haze. Singapore is famous for land reclamation, but Tianjin could teach a thing or two with absolutely massive reclamation works and new port areas. The passenger terminal was huge and final disembarkation from our ship was easy and painless. Very helpful Policeman told us what the ship failed to tell anyone, which was how to get out of the port area and to an LRT station. The 513 bus, parked a little way from the terminal exit took the 2 of us including luggage to the LRT station for Yuan (Y) 5.00 total for what was over ½ hour trip. The LRT was Y 7.00 each but unhappily stopped 2 stations before the main rail station, which would have been a short walk to our Hotel ..The Green Tree hotel at 127 Binjiang Ave, Heping District...Y183 per night for double, friendly, basic and clean and free Ethernet Internet. www.988.com We did however find a tut tut driver who helped with directions and then delivered us to the door for Y15. He was so pleasant that we got him to take us on a 4 hour excursion around town for Y150.

Let me tell you, this city is a best kept secret. Super clean, wide streets, a beautiful and clean river with masses of bridges all shapes and sizes, almost never ending examples of colonial buildings, massive banks, mega stores, long wide pedestrian walkways and fantastic food. Little side alleys of window shops (super clean stalls), old fashioned, wonderful pedestrian shopping areas with all period buildings and wonderfully colourful buildings, enormous Buddhist monastery complex again with wonderfully kept and renovated ancient building Y5.00, including chanting monks. There are theme areas such as Italian style region, first settled by Italian families, but now known for its beautiful fountain and eating outlets featuring Italian, Bavarian/German, and another various European foods...plus beer...lots and lots of beer. At night there are mile long pedestrian malls of Heping and Binjiang Roads, which are ablaze with coloured lights, shops and food outlets galore. This we saw on day one, but we intend going back to many of them, plus giant department complexes, river cruises and we haven't touched yet the very many parks and gardens.

Day 2 and we walked along the river a few km to the Ancient Commercial District with its wonderful food, shops selling everything possible and ancient temples. This took the better part of ½ a day of wandering and a pleasant walk back along the river watching men swimming in the river, tour boats, extraordinary buildings flanking the river and the century clock in the square outside the main rail station. There is a favourite dumpling Soy Gow, but eaten with dark vinegar, which is cheap and tasty Y15 for 20 dumplings. Also a flat fried dumpling with various fillings and almost a meal each at Y4 a piece.

Day 3 was spent checking out how to get to the Tianjin airport as Internet info seemed contradictory. Well after inspecting many leads from the Net, we found that the only bus was from the main rail station left of exit/entrance north No2. Y10 pp.These leave every 30 min on the dot. There is a mess of building at present as a new metro station is being built and eventually we assume the buses will be a bit closer to the station exit. To get from the front (south) of the station facing the river to the north exit you have to go through the station which includes lining up for baggage inspection.

Day 4 and last of day 3 was window shopping and even then we barely scratched the surface. The choices of clothing, footwear and accessories seems endless. We also checked out a large market and nearby gluttons square. The market was clean and good, but gluttons square was overpriced and not very good.

Last day we repacked our bags to comply with Air Asia rules and the hotel kindly drove us to the station. The bus trip to the airport was easy and comfortable. Bus station at the airport is just outside ground floor of arrivals area. When leaving, don't arrive more than 3 hours before takeoff as an official little bugger will make you hang around the entrance hall even though the departure signs say the check in counter is open. Just means less duty free spending time I guess.

Happily one rarely has to deal with any officious officials and the city is such a pleasant surprise that once China makes it less complicated and inconvenient to get a visa, one would definitely think about coming back for another visit.
Meanwhile there was so much to see, I will add a few more favourite Photos.